We left off the fairing story with the rear support glassed in place and a big hole cut for making the screw mount. Over the past couple of days, I continued working on the the hole. After pondering how to do this, I decided on a three-step process. Because the sensitive thing is the outer …
The previous post talked about how we arrived at the present unpainted state. Before painting, there were some things to attend to with regards to the rear fairing. This is still the early Tyga version, and it also has some fitment issues. Look at the rear fairing above. The only places where it’s attached are …
It’s been a while since I wrote something about the bikes. Not much has really happened since we moved to Hilo, but I’m now back to doing some stuff on the NC30. It really started before we moved. I mentioned back in the post that I was going to replace the nonstandard headlight in the …
I finally got a rear stand for the NC30 so I could take a look at the rear wheel. Since it has a single-sided swingarm, you need a stand that has a big fat pin that’s inserted into the rear hub, and it turns out those stands are a) much more expensive than normal two-sided …
If you’ve read the the clutch posts #1 and #2, you know that I’ve been trying to get the clutch sorted for a while. The latest state of affairs was that the clutch was slipping uncontrollably and I’d then realized my clutch had NC35 pressure plates, which are 1.9mm thick instead of 1.5mm. So I …
The NC23 has been making this ticking sound when first started when cold since I got it. It disappears after a minute or so. This might just be a bad exhaust gasket. It’s also clear the clutch bearing is going, because pulling the clutch in when cold often results in some quite unpleasant noises. That …
The NC30 rewire has been completed. The first post described the alternator/rectifier wiring, what remained was the battery wiring. Since the master fuse and connectors to the alternator and the loads are integral to the starter solenoid and doesn’t lend itself to upgrading, I’d decided to bypass it completely. The new battery wiring goes from …
As I described in the last post, the charge wiring on the NC30 was seriously fubar and needed a complete rewire. After a massive order of electrical gear, I had all I needed. The first task was to find a replacement regulator/rectifier. I found a used FH008 MOSFET rectifier off of a CBR600 on ebay …
Both the NC23 and the NC30 are known for having weak regulator/rectifiers. Mine seemed to work, though I’d definitely noticed a very distinct brightening and dimming of the lights when revving the engine. Since I have enough things to fix on these bikes, I didn’t exactly go looking for more. Then I started digging into …
Well, nothing’s ever easy with this bike… As described in the last post, I found 4 clutch springs instead of 3, explaining the heavy clutch. So I put it back together with 3 as it should be. The clutch now felt pretty normal, very much like the NC23 one. I refilled the oil and took …